Mortlach 20 is a classic example of all the good that time and tradition can do for a whisky. And indeed, 20 years is spot-on to tame “The Beast of Dufftown”. Two decades of maturation in sherry casks results in complex, yet well-balanced notes of refined oak and dark sherry, truly worthy of Cowie’s Blue Seal. Having this whisky on my bar has truly been a privilege (Thanks to my beautiful wife!) and I honestly do hope this review does justice to this splendid Speyside scotch whisky.

About the Mortlach Distillery

Located in Dufftown, Scotland, the Mortlach distillery was started in 1823. At a time when illicit activities and illegal whisky production were rampant, the Mortlach distillery was the first legal distillery to produce whisky. This could be because, as you know whisky distillation was legalized in the highlands in 1823 and it is possible that they were producing whisky a long time before, but it got its legal license in 1823.

Today, Dufftown is a small, sleepy city with a population of just 1,590. However, it is considered the richest city in the United Kingdom. This is because of the 7 distilleries present in the city enable Dufftown to produce the most GDP per person. An old saying goes by; “Rome by built on 7 hills and Dufftown was built on 7 Stills”.

The Mortlach History

The Mortlach distillery has gone through some notable milestones from its foundation in 1823 to the present day where it is under the leadership of Diageo.

Source

Mortlach Distillery Timeline

• 1823 – The first legal distillery in Dufftown region founded by James Findlater
• 1831 – Sold to John Robertson for only £270.
• 1842 – Taken over by the Grant brothers, in partnership with John Alexander Gordon
• 1853 – George Cowie joined the distillery as part owner
• 1867 – John Alexander Gordon died, and George Cowie took full ownership
• 1897 – The distillery passed down from George Cowie Jr to his son, Alexander Cowie
• 1909 – Cowie’s Blue Seal reserve was curated which stands for best of the best at Mortlach
• 1923 – Sold to John Walker and Sons
• 1930 – Transferred the management of the site to Scottish Malt Distillers who later became United Distillers
• 1964 – All pot stills were replaced in a massive refurbishment
• 1996 – The distillery released its first official bottlings

What’s Cowie’s Blue Seal?

As seen above, just before the turn of the new century, in 1897, the distillery was passed on to Alexander Cowie. Dr. Alexander Cowie was a medical practitioner posted in Hong Kong at the time when Hong Kong was a part of the British empire. His love for potion mixing was brought into play again when we took charge of the Mortlach distillery, where we wanted to develop a whisky, that in his opinion would be best suited for consumers.

He, along with the distillery engineer Charles Doig developed a unique 2.81 distillation process which is unique to Mortlach and is still in use today. The 2.81 distillation process results in a copious, bold, and rich spirit which took Alexander Cowie to great popularity.

With his newfound knowledge, which was tried and tested, Alexander Cowie wanted to create a special stock that in his opinion would be his most private and rare release. In 1909, he brought this special stock to life and called it the “Cowie’s Blue Seal”. The Cowie’s Blue Seal represented brilliance and utmost quality amongst the Mortlach reserves and today, that tradition is carried forward with the 20-year-old expression.

Mortlach 20 Years old Speyside Scotch Whisky Basic Details

• Whisky Type: Single Malt
• Country: Speyside, Scotland
• Age: 20 Years
• Distiller: Mortlach Distillery, Dufftown.
• ABV (Alcohol by Volume):4%
• Colour: Old Copper
• Maturation Casks:
  • Sherry Casks
  • Ex American Oak
• Price Range: $240-$250 (Approximately)

Mortlach 20 Nose

Starts with soft, fruity notes which are backed by warm oiliness. After a prominent fruitiness, comes the vanilla, most probably due to the ex-American oak. Another prominent note is that of chocolaty citrus. Almost like orange peel-infused coco-nibs. There is some spiciness but pretty subdued. The spiciness is the classic Mortlach character, but in the 20-year-old, it seems to be tamed down quite a bit. Overall, very pleasant with close to no alcoholic notes.

Top notes include:

• Dark fruits & apples
• Citrus, orange peel
• Vanilla, brown sugar
• Wood spices
• Cocoa nibs, dark chocolate

Mortlach 20 on the Palate

In contrast to the nose, when it comes to taste, the palate has a lot more spice. Nice, oily mouthfeel which is warm and silky. Some notes are bitter-sweet like dark chocolate with orchid fruits. A hint of honey and menthol towards the end.

Key palate notes would include:

• Warm spice
• Sponge cake
• Sugar/honey-dusted apples
• Bowl of sweet, dried fruits like raisins, prunes
• Dark chocolate/ cocoa nibs
• Citrus, orange, or limlet towards the finish

Conclusion

It is amazing how taming this whisky for 20 years gives birth to a gentle monster unlike its 12, and 16-year-old counterparts, but at the very heart of it is still “the Beast of Dufftown”. The grand, spicy, and fiery spirit of the distillery resonates through a much more balanced and well-rounded palate that compels you to appreciate the Cowie family with every sip.